by Bradley Tuck

For more than a decade now, Nobu has been one of those restaurants whose name is synonymous with fine dining and star spotting. Its new LA outpost on La Cienega Boulevard was long awaited, taking over the space formerly occupied by L’Orangerie, an LA institution.

Architect David Rockwell has christened the new space as a sexy study in contrasts. Guests enter through a hand-crafted iron gate to find the host stand made of a beautifully honed slab of stone. In the main dining room there are walls of randomly woven, backlit wicker-like material called Stitched Puzzle from a new collection of wall coverings by David Rockwell for Maya Romanoff. Hovering above diners are custom made white chandeliers made of silkworm cocoons. The effect is comforting, and the greetings yelled by the staff every time a new customer enters the room adds to the fun.

The food is intensely superb, as we’ve come to expect from Executive Chef and Owner Nobu Matsuhisa, yet it delivers the same surprises.

The Toro tartar with caviar was smooth and rich. The hearts of palm salad came with a spicy citrus dressing to cleanse the palate. The sizzling flambé of beef tenderloin startled adjacent diners when the flames shot into the air. The smooth fat was melt-in-your-mouth perfect. The sake selection is unique to Nobu, which accentuates its impressive wine list. The overall effect is young but worldly.

903 N. La Cienega Blvd | noburestaurants.com

photography tim street porter / rockwell group